Written by Sarah Sulollari
This ride had everything: sweeping descents, territorial dogs, and one dangerously unpredictable motorbiker.
My partner Robert and I have cycled through Italy several times, and it keeps drawing us back. For us, it’s one of the best countries to explore by bike, with solid infrastructure, incredible food, and some of the most beautiful scenery in Europe.
After routes like Villach – Venice, Milan – Bologna, and Milan – Florence, we decided to head further south. When friends told us they’d be running the Rome Marathon, the plan came together quickly: we’d cycle to Rome and cheer them on.
Using Bikemap’s Tour Planner, we mapped out a four-day ride from Naples to Rome through stunning villages. There are two EuroVelo routes connecting the cities, one coastal and one hillier. Naturally, we chose the harder option.
We packed light, knowing every extra gram would have to be carried uphill. From Vienna, we took the night train to Naples via Rome and spent the weekend warming up our legs and building up energy reserves. Neapolitan food is hard to beat: simple, affordable, and unbelievably good, set against the backdrop of Mount Vesuvius.
Day 1
Getting out of Naples was the most stressful part. Uneven cobbles had me wishing for suspension within minutes, and the traffic was relentless. Cars, scooters and pedestrians all seemed to move at once, somehow flowing around each other. The trick was not to hesitate. Take up space, or you’ll be stuck waiting forever.
Once we escaped the city, things improved quickly. We followed a path alongside train tracks towards rolling hills, a gentle introduction before the real climbing began. After the chaos of Naples, the quiet felt almost surreal.
Our accommodation was just off the route, making for an easy finish. That evening, we found a small, down-to-earth trattoria and celebrated the first day with excellent local food, including some of the best boiled greens and carbonara we’ve ever had.
Day 2
We set off towards Ferentino, a medieval hilltop town, under clear skies. The first climb led to Roccasecca, where we rode straight through a lively market. Farmers sold fresh produce, nonnas haggled over their weekly shop, and people lingered over espresso in the sun.
Not long after a short descent, we were chased by a surprisingly fast sausage dog. We tried to outrun it and quickly learned that tiny legs can move alarmingly fast.
The mood shifted on the next climb. An aggressive motorcyclist started shouting at us and followed us up the road. We didn’t feel safe and stopped at the nearest building, which turned out to be a library and police station.
The librarian took us in immediately and helped us communicate, though the policeman was less concerned. We waited there for a while until things calmed down, and eventually the librarian’s dad kindly drove us to the nearest train station. Their kindness really stuck with us.
We skipped about 20 km by train to rejoin the route. Not ideal, but the right decision.
Even after all that, we still had one final climb into Ferentino. We arrived exhausted, cleaned up, and ended the day with pasta and an early night.
What a day.
Day 3
Day three started, as expected, with another climb. On the way, a perfectly timed stop led us to some of the best cornetti we’ve ever had. Hunger may have helped, but they were absolutely worth the effort.
After Lago di Canterno, we reached Fiuggi and joined the Fiuggi-Paliano cycle path. Built on an old railway line, it winds through the hills in smooth serpentines, passing quiet towns and old station buildings. No cars, perfect tarmac, and long flowing descents made it one of the highlights of the trip.
Unfortunately, the day went downhill from there, and not in a good way. The official EuroVelo route sent us onto muddy farm tracks where five kilometres took two hours. Deep puddles made riding impossible, so we pushed and navigated our way through.
Then came an abandoned castle ruin and a steep, rough descent. Robert enjoyed it. I walked.
Not long after, we encountered several large shepherd dogs. Remembering the sausage dog, we got off and walked past calmly. That worked until a much larger group from a nearby field started barking and running towards us. By sheer luck, Rob’s bike fell over and startled them just enough to keep their distance. Being surrounded by that many barking dogs is not something I’d recommend.
The rest of the ride was calmer, apart from more climbing. We passed villages where people were burning branches, a Saint Joseph’s Day tradition marking the end of winter.
Palestrina turned out to be one of the most charming towns of the trip, with an impressive Roman sanctuary and a museum housing the famous Nile mosaic.
By now, it will come as no surprise that we ended the day with a carb-heavy dinner. Even the waiter seemed surprised when we ordered tiramisu after two starters, two large pasta dishes, and plenty of bread, but he still brought out some local red wine cookies as a final treat.
Day 4
On our final day to Rome, we left EuroVelo 5 and headed into the Alban Hills. A friend had recommended the lakes and the food around Nemi and Lago di Castel Gandolfo, which was all the motivation we needed.
More climbs followed, but the views made it worthwhile. Fresh spring greens covered the forests, and the lakes shimmered in the sun.
We finished the ride on the famous Via Appia. Cycling over cobbles more than two thousand years old, knowing that Julius Caesar and countless others had travelled this route, felt pretty special. That said, don’t be fooled by the photos. Without suspension, those uneven stones are tough on the hands.
Just 10 km from our friends, already in Rome and likely during rush hour, we had our first flat tire of the entire trip. Considering we’d completed eight tours by then, we can’t complain, though we suspect the Via Appia played a role.
Tired and sweaty, we stopped near an impressive triumphal arch to fix the tube. Several passing cyclists checked in to see if we needed help, which made for a warm welcome to the city. Rome may be more chaotic and less bike-friendly than Vienna, but the cycling community more than made up for it.
After that unexpected stop, we followed the Tiber and caught glimpses of Rome’s landmarks in the soft evening light.
Finally, we reached our friends, who were waiting with pasta and Moretti. We rested, recovered, and got ready to cheer them on at the marathon.
Italy once again delivered on scenery and food. Next time, though, we might plan more carefully in areas with lots of street dogs, or bring an air horn.
If you want to read more about cycling to Italy, check out our article From Munich to Lake Garda by Bike: Crossing the Alps in Six Days. There you’ll learn how we tackled the Alpine passes from Bavaria all the way down to Italy’s most iconic lake, featuring stunning mountain scenery, South Tyrolean food, and six unforgettable days in the saddle.
Did Sarah’s trip inspire you? You can share your own story with us too — and get the chance to be featured in our Bike Stories! We can’t wait to read about your cycling adventures and share them with our amazing community!
