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File:Stokes3 nonlin celerity.svg

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    English: Nonlinear enhancement of the phase speed c as compared to the linear-theory phase speed c0, according to Stokes' third-order theory for surface gravity waves:
    c=c0{1+910σ2+9σ416σ4(ka)2}+𝒪((ka)4),withc0=gkσandσ=tanhkh.

    On the horizontal axis is the relative water depth h / λ, with h the mean depth and λ the wavelength, while the vertical axis is the nonlinear phase-speed enhancement (c − c0) / c0 divided by the wave steepness ka squared (with k = 2π / λ the wavenumber and a the wave amplitude).
    The blue line is valid for arbitrary water depth, while the dashed red line is the shallow-water limit (water depth small compared to the wavelength), and the dash-dot green line is the asymptotic limit for deep water waves.

    The equation for the phase speed c (celerity) is based on Stokes' first definition of celerity, i.e. the mean horizontal flow velocity is zero below trough level.
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    Author Kraaiennest
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    1 March 2012

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    Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
    current15:48, 1 March 2012Thumbnail for version as of 15:48, 1 March 2012708 × 373 (83 KB)Kraaiennest=={{int:filedesc}}== {{Information |description={{en|1=Nonlinear enhancement of the phase speed ''c'' as compared to the linear-theory phase speed ''c''<sub>0</sub>, according to [[:en:George Gabriel Stok...

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