A little known plate of french fries, cheese curds and gravy created back in the 1950s has become a regional icon in Quebec. Now this same visually unappealing and odd combination is a winner on diner, food truck, fast food, and even fine dining menus across the country. Known as poutine (pronounced by the Quebecois as pu-tsin), this messy heart-attack-on-a-plate has morphed beyond deep-fried potatoes topped with squeaky fresh cheese curds and warm chicken gravy into gastronomic monstrosities that defy the imagination. Some of the far-from-heartsmart concoctions to have graced our stomachs include The Oktoberfest at the Big Cheese Poutinerie in Calgary where fries are heaped with German sausage, sautéed onions, Dijon gravy and sauerkraut. The Sugar Shack version at Spud's Potato Bar and Poutinerie in Ottawa is a sweet-salty medley of the usual fixings plus bacon, sausage and a good glug of maple syrup. The famed Au Pied du Cochon in Montreal raises the unhealthy meter (and the price!) by gilding the shaggy mess with an unctuous slice of fois gras. Don't be still my beating heart! In Regina, 3,500 kilometres from its French Canadian birthplace, this beloved dish is hitting chalkboard menus. Flip Eatery piles a veggie poutine with queso, pico de gallo, olives, and pickled hot peppers. Beer Bros Gastropub goes over the top with a breakfast poutine of sausage, bacon, fried egg, hash browns and sausage gravy, while the Coney Island Café sports a floor to ceiling chalkboard laden with all sorts of combinations and permutations.

And now, there's the new Mr. Spudds Poutinerie. This bright red kitchen on wheels dishes up 35 different variations from the Montreal Classic with curds and beef gravy to a Greek-style with black olives, feta, fresh onions and creamy Caesar dressing.

The rolling restaurant is run by Kevin Harty and his wife Jacqueline. This is the same couple that started Mr. Spudds Snack Shack in Lumsden 18 years ago. Last year, they sold the business to take on running a food truck full-time. They equipped the small space (25 feet by eight feet) with three fryers, a grill and broiler, an oven and two burners.

"I bought the best equipment I could buy. This kitchen is made for high volume," says Harty of his kitchen, which believe it or not, is virtually the same size as the one at the Snack Shack.

Currently, he's stationed at the corner of Fleury Street and Ross Avenue, Monday to Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and at the Regina Farmer's Market on Saturdays. If you don't find the truck at either location, chances are he's hard at work filling stomachs at Folk Fest, by a street curb somewhere on Canada Day, or at the Farm Progress Show.

Hardy's menu lists burgers, dogs, regular fries and a raft of poutine inventions. Although only three are listed on the menu, ask and they'll whip you up just about anything.

"I'll create a poutine for the craziest of tastes and stick to some of the traditional ones for the less adventurous."

A popular off-the-wall variation he's created is hot fries topped with caramelized pineapple and three strips of bacon. Sounds odd but even my 14-year old son, Benjamin, thought the sweet flavours worked with the salty tastes.

At the upcoming Market Under the Stars (June 25 from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.) Harty will be dishing up a special version with local goat cheese and wild boar supplied by market vendors.

And Harty's poutine concept has taken off so well he is now getting bookings for weddings. Instead of laying out cold cuts or pizza for hungry celebrators, Harty will roll up his truck, open the window and serve up three kinds.

"It offers a different experience." While Regina may be a far cry by from la belle province, poutine has made its way to this prairie region. And it will be long time before chefs and eager poutine connoisseurs tire of what is now most assuredly a new Canadian dish. You can reach CJ via her website at www.cjkatz.com or follow her on Twitter @CJKatz.