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A kitchen Knife Wrapped in Conspiracy Theory

10 Oct

This week, the latest round of attacks of Arabs against Jews and Jews against Arabs promise to make the year 2015 one of the most violent.  It’s nothing new.  Attacks and counter-attacks date back more than 100 years, decades before Israel was established.  What is new are the actors.  It is no longer army against army, or militias against insurgents, or tribesmen against organized kibbutz settlers. This time individuals, vigilantes, and loners take center stage.  Just in the last 48 hours, ten Arabs, acting independently of one another, lashed out at Israeli-Jews all over the country.  These young Arab men (and two Arab women) were armed with knives, screwdrivers, any sharp implement they could get their hands on. Weeks before, Jewish extremists also lashed against Arabs villages, burning houses with the occupants inside.

Temple Mount in Jerusalem. The Jewish Western Wall in the foreground and the Al Aqsa Mosque on top

Temple Mount in Jerusalem. The Jewish Western Wall in the foreground and the Al Aqsa Mosque on top

Who are these madmen?

On the Jewish side, it’s mostly right-wing settler-extremists who want to drive away Arabs from the West Bank.  They’re driven by faith to settle Judea and Samaria at all costs.  Through their elected members of the Knesset (Israel’s parliament), they wield great influence to build more settlements.  When their demands are not met, they take the law into their own hands and raid Arab villages and mosques in the dead of night.  After numerous attacks, few if any were apprehended.  Those caught by Israel’s security forces and police choose to remain silent under investigation.  With no “evidence” to try them, they are soon released.  It’s this kid glove attitude; it’s this turning a blind eye to the violence that invites counter-violence from the Arabs.

Arab resistance in East Jerusalem

Arab resistance in East Jerusalem

Don’t get me wrong.  I’m not justifying the recent Arabs’ violence.  Throwing rocks is wrong. Hurling burning molotov cocktails at innocent Jewish drivers is wrong.  Running over Jews with automobiles is insane.  Stabbing Jews in the street is cowardly.  Arab social media instructional video on how to stab and kill Jews is demented and sick.  But why are they killing?  Arab frustration is at an all-time high.  Despair is higher.  Fear of Jews infringing on their sacred Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem turns sleeper-cell Arabs, college students, and seemingly normal men and women into murderers.  Something goes berserk in their heads, and they start looking for the first Jew to kill. I attribute much of this insanity and violence to conspiracy theory.  Here’s my theory: The more educated and democratic a country, the less the likelihood its people will subscribe to conspiracy theory.  Let me illustrate.  Some people in America still think Americans never landed on the moon, that JFK was killed by the mob, or by space aliens, or that the tragedy of 9/11 was an inside job. They’re the minority.  Most Americans know better.  However, in Arab countries ruled by strongmen with an iron fist, conspiracy theory is alive and kicking.  It’s their narrative; it’s how they explain the world.  It’s how the uneducated and no access to power by peaceful means deal with events beyond their control.  Were it not the Arabs who invented the fables of One Thousand and One Nights? They love a good story to explain life’s mysteries.  Let me invent a story to help explain: There’s a dinner party in Washington DC.  A senator is rushed to the hospital where he’s pronounced dead. The next day, the newspapers reveal he’d suffered a heart attack. End of story. Take this same event, only this time put it in Cairo.  An Egyptian delegate dies after eating a rack of lamb at the president’s banquet.  The word on the Arab street the next morning: “Delegate was poisoned because he was critical of the president’s policies.”naftali bennett

Why am I telling you a story of conspiracy?  Recently Naftali Bennett, Israel’s current Minister of Education, chose to speak less of math and grammar and more of God-given rights to Jews.  As a right-wing extremist he said Jews have the right to visit Jerusalem’s entire Temple Mount, including the compound assigned to the Muslims at the doorstep to the Al Aqsa Mosque.  This is a definite red line.  It was crossed before in 2000 by then prime minister Ariel Sharon.  Hell broke loose.  The trampling over this holy Arab site triggered an Arab Intifada (uprising) that took the lives of many.  Today, one slip of the tongue, one misspoken word (Bennett’s), one incitement or challenge to their faith or Mosque ignites the Arabs’ imagination that we’re out to get them.  They soon run into the streets with knives between their teeth.  Conspiracy theory at work.

Benjamin Netanyahu

Benjamin Netanyahu

Who’s the winner?  No one.  Who’s the loser?  Everyone.  Israel is isolated diplomatically.  To those who say it doesn’t matter, only security matters, think again.  We need friends.  We can’t cut off everyone.  Tourism is down.  Hotels in Jerusalem are near empty.  Jerusalem’s mayor urges his residents to carry pistols.  Schools in the city are closed until security guards can vouch for the children’s safety.  Arabs too are losing big time.  Jews who wanted to give peace talks a chance are now disillusioned.  Images of Arabs stabbing innocent bystanders will not convince even the doves in the crowd that Arabs want coexistence  Jews are boycotting Arab businesses.  Daily 50,000 Arab documented laborers and 50,000 undocumented workers come to work in Israel from the West Bank.  If violence were to continue, they will be blocked from entering.  Assuming these 100,000 workers provide for a family of six, then 600,000 will go wanting.  This will lead to more despair, more violence.

Mahmoud Abbas

Mahmoud Abbas

What’s the solution? There isn’t any.  But for now, cool heads must prevail.  Israel’s Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu should stop with his “rally around me because everyone’s out to kill us” rhetoric. Enough of scaring us.  Not all Arabs are killers.  Netanyahu is not acting; he’s only reacting, turning his nightly appearance on our TV into a war room.  He’s weak; he lets right-wing extremists run the show so long as he stays in power.  For what purpose?  But he’s done two things right this week: 1. He put a freeze on expanding the Jewish settlements in the West Bank (reacting, not acting).  2.  He prohibited all members of Knesset – Jews and Arabs — from entering the Al Aqsa area (reacting, not acting).  Mahmoud Abbas, president of the Palestinian Authority, is still coordinating his security forces with those of Israel to stem out the violence.  It’s not because he loves Israel; it’s his fear that if the PA falls, Hamas and others will come after his neck.  Abbas may walk softy, he may carry a long stick, but he knows there’s no military solution to his aspiration for a Palestinian statehood.  Knives will not help.  Our futures are locked for generations.  And that’s no conspiracy theory.

 

Jerusalem today: below is a video showing the aftermath of two Israeli policemen hit by friendly fire (Israel’s security forces) after trying to apprehend an Arab terrorist/stabber.  He was later shot dead.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Maurice-Labi/e/B00A9H4XEI

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

The Chinese are Coming!

19 Sep
chinese laborer

Chinese Laborer

The year’s 1973; I’m eighteen and it’s a late Saturday night and I’m returning home from a night of disco dancing with the gang.  I’m asleep all of four hours when on a very early Sunday morning my father pulls the summer sheets off my bed.  “Get up,” he says.  “We leave for work.”  At six in the morning, my eyes half-shut, I report to a construction site near Tel-Aviv.  Arabic is heard all around me.  I help my father mix cement, haul bricks and blocks up the apartment complex.  By noon several walls have gone up, by late afternoon I pack up my tools and walk home with my dad. This is how I spent my summer vacation, working, speaking nothing but Arabic with a bunch of Arab help from the Gaza Strip.

Fast forward to the 1990s, my dad’s near retirement but he’s still working full-time as a bricklayer, not with Arabs, but this time with Romanians.  Arabs are no longer welcome in Israel after a period of terrorist attacks.  Romanians by the thousands take their place.  They’re reliable, cheap, and do not carry bombs in their lunchbox.  And so begins Israel’s love affair with foreign labor.  Tens of thousands of Filipinos are employed here as caregivers to aging Israelis, thousands of Thai immigrants pick produce from fields.  Most Israelis don’t do menial labor.  My father belonged to a bygone era.  Today Israelis would rather work at high-tech jobs, medicine, military hardware, or develop the next killer-app for Silicone Valley. Getting one’s hands dirty in construction jobs is just that – dirty.

Chinese construction laborers in Israel

Chinese construction laborers in Israel

And so begins the next round of immigrant labor to Israel, this time the Chinese.  Homes in Israel are notoriously expensive.  Americans on average have to work 60-70 months to buy a home. Europeans: 80.  Israelis: 140.  Why?  There are many reasons: Jewish immigrants and investors come to Israel in large numbers, adding to demand.  Majority of land is owned by the Israeli government which has a vested interest in keeping land values high so it can get its share of taxes.  To keep demand high, it doles out land gingerly.  High labor costs add to high cost of homes. Demand outstrips supply. Building projects remain idle for lack of laborers.  Jews don’t want to climb scaffolds, to pour concrete, to plaster.  Arabs from the West Bank are suspect.  What’s a developer to do?  Using their strong lobby, the developers recently petitioned the Israeli government to allow “importing” 30,000 Chinese.  They claim the Chinese earn less than Jews and Arabs, and therefore they can pass on the savings to home buyers. Prices will go down by 5%.

Arabs in Construction

Arabs in Construction

This entire plan smells like a week-old chow mein.  Judging from past “import” of foreign labor, there was no price reduction.  On the contrary, prices are still spiraling out of control.  Developers and contractors will pocket the savings and blame the higher prices on others.  Secondly, why do we need 30,000 Chinese?  It’s common knowledge that these poor immigrants pay hefty “transaction fees” to Chinese and Israeli brokers.  Before these Chinese men lift a single brick, they start out with a debt of thousands of dollars, a modern-day slavery.  Yet these Chinese men are willing to cough up the money just so they come and work.

But what about the Arabs?  According to figures, there are 37,000 Arabs who enter daily from the West Bank (Judea and Samaria) to work in Israel proper, and an estimated 13,000 who enter as undocumented laborers.  Unemployment in the West Bank is high.  If Israel is to put out the fire on its turbulent relations with the West Bank Arabs of late, is it not better off employing them?  Will bringing home a paycheck to their villages not help quell the Arabs’ festering anger toward Israel? It’s not my love of the Arabs that convinces me that this is the better solution, but the love of the Jews and what’s best for them/us.

These 50,000 Arab laborers are reliable; they leave their village homes at daybreak, go through security check-points manned by Israeli soldiers; they stand in congested lines for hours before being admitted in, and finally once inside Israel, they build homes for the Jews, return home late in the day to start the whole thing all over again the next day.  When asked on TV if they’re content, the answer is a resounding “yes!”  They earn Israeli Shekels with dignity, return home and feed and care for their families.  Are there bad apples in the bunch? Terrorist cells?  Very few.  The majority want nothing more than to work.  And if 30,000 Chinese are going to land here, what will it do to labor costs?  Arabs will be squeezed further.  They will not be able to provide.  Anger and frustrations will escalate.  One more brick in the wall that will lead to an uprising, an Intifada.  My disco days are long gone, but if the Chinese are allowed to enter and displace Arabs, we could all be dancing to a different tune.  And I didn’t read this in a fortune cookie.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Maurice-Labi/e/B00A9H4XEI

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

 

Almond Fields Forever

5 Sep
Galilee almond tree at full winter bloom

Almond tree at full winter bloom

Okay, the title of this post doesn’t have the same ring as the famous Beatles song, but here, in Galilee, almond fields are eternal.  Originally from China, almond trees made their way to the Mediterranean region.  At first the wild almond trees were poisonous and full of cyanide to ward off the leathery tongues of goats.  In time, man domesticated the tree, and the almonds, a cousin of the peach and cherry, became man’s best friend on the road.  In biblical times, during the great famine, Patriarch Jacob sent his sons to Egypt stocked with almonds.  During Roman times, horsemen and mercenaries lived on almonds as the ultimate Trail Mix.  When attending a wedding, guests showered the newlywed couple with almonds for good luck.

Liora at the controls

Liora at the controls

Recently I too was in luck.  It was mid-August, the height of the almond harvest in Galilee.  Liora, a third-generation woman farmer and friend of ours offered to give me a private tour of “the business.”  So I get in my car and drive thirty minutes to Kibbutz Geva to meet her.

The first thing I see are stretches of flat land extending in very direction.  At one end, there’s a makeshift camp covered with tarp. Under it, all-terrain vehicles are at the ready.  Several semi-trailer trucks appear, sending clouds of red dust into the air.  They’re loaded with un-shelled almonds.  Liora stands like General Patton and gives out orders into her two-way radio. The drivers inside the trucks come to a halt, swerve, and follow her every command.

Almonds drying in the sun

Almonds drying in the sun

She waves to me to come and join her under the tarp.  I obey.

“So this is where we scatter the almonds to dry,” she says and gestures in a sweeping motion.  “Tons and tons and tons of them.”  We step out from under the shade.  I cast a flat hand over my eyes and scan the endless rows of drying almonds in the sun.  I ask her a city-slicker question: “Why don’t you let the almonds dry at the foot of the trees where you shook them off the branches?”

Her face, brown from too much sun, caked with dust, becomes quizzical.  She declares the obvious: “What do you think, we live in your California, huh?  If I leave the almonds on the ground for more than one day, they’ll be gone the next!”  I help her out.  “Thieves,” I say.  Liora chuckles and says, “Definitely not goats.”

And so begins a massive month-long operation where tons of almonds are harvested at the source, loaded on containers that are loaded onto big trucks that drive to Kibbutz Geva.  There, the almonds in their shells are left to dry for days, tossed and re-tossed, collected into bins and delivered to the almond almonds 3mill just one kilometer away.  At the mill the millions of almonds are crushed, the shell extracted. Then they’re sorted by size, grade and quality by Italian-made machinery.  The shells ultimately will become feed for cattle.  The almonds will be packed and sold to a nuts merchant.  Israel’s almond fields are large but they’re dwarfed by California’s (100 times larger!); the world’s number 1 grower and exporter.

Reporting from Galilee

Reporting from Galilee

Liora and her husband Allon who’d taken me on an olive tour a couple of years ago make a good living off the land.  Unlike California’s Central Valley that relies on rainwater and sporadic drilling, the almond trees in Israel rely on delivered irrigation as well, making them less vulnerable to nature’s whims.  But there are other problems: pests, excessive heat, and the bees.  “Bees?” I ask Liora.  “I thought they’re the good guys that pollinate the blossoms.”  Liora speaks of the bees and the trees as if they were her wayward children, worthy of an occasional spanking. She says, “Almond trees are just dumb.  They’re stupid!  All fruit trees blossom in April.  Almonds do it in February, at the peak of winter.  Now you show me a bee that wants to freeze its butt off buzzing from one flower to the next?”

Homemade almond milk

Homemade almond milk

I nod, trying to imagine a swarm of bees with frozen butts.

Almonds grown in Israel meet most of the local demand.  The rest is imported from California. Whereas California almonds are smaller, rounder, Galilee almonds are longer, meatier, more crunchy. Israel sells almonds to Jordan through a land-bridge and from there to the rest of the Arab world.  A prince sitting on a bunch of pillows in the Emirates of the Persian Gulf could be sipping dark, strong tea and not know he’s munching on Israeli almonds.

At home, other than to add a splash to my morning coffee, I gave up on milk several years ago. Instead, we drink homemade almond milk.  Its nutrient value is high, it tastes good and it’s easier on the stomach.  If it was good enough for Jacob and the Romans, it’s good enough for me.

Enjoy.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Maurice-Labi/e/B00A9H4XEI

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

 

 

God is watching… PART 2

9 Aug

I’m no prophet in this land of the bible.  But 15 months ago I predicted of what was to come.  I saw the writings on the wall, literally.  I wrote of “price tag,” the act of Jewish orthodox men terrorizing Arab villages in the West Bank (Judea and Samaria).  Numerous acts of violence were committed: desecrating, inscribing hate messages on the walls of Muslim mosques, the burning of cars and property. Not one perpetrator was apprehended.  Emboldened with their success, they become more violent after each act.

Burned CHurch of Loaves and FIshes in Galilee

Burned Church of Loaves and Fishes in Galilee

Next they turned their attention on churches.  Recently they burned large parts of the Loaves and Fishes Church on the Sea of Galilee where Jesus is said to have performed miracles.  There’s no other word for it but terrorism.  6 in 10 tourists to Israel are not Jewish.  These christian pilgrims come in large numbers to support the State of Israel, to visit their holy sites.  And what do you in return?  We burn what’s dear to their heart.  These right-wing extremists, affectionately called the “hill boys” because they protect God-given hills in Judea and Smaria, are committing bolder and bolder crimes, and more frequently.  These “boys” look up to their Yeshiva (seminary) rabbis and to Daniella Weiss for guidance and inspiration.  Weiss is the hardcore founder of the Settlement Movement, an organization bent on building Jewish settlements throughout the West Bank at the expense of the Palestinian population.  She’s in the headlines again.  Last week Jewish terrorists torched two Arab houses and scrolled the words “revenge” and “Long live the Messiah King” on the walls along with a Star of David.  The fire consumed the structures.  An infant died.  Israel Defense Forces came on the scene and airlifted the mother and father to the hospital.  Later the father died of his burn wounds.  Israel’s president Reuven Rivlin, the media, and the majority of the Israeli public condemned the attack.  Weiss accused president Rivlin of being too soft with the Arabs and that he should watch his comments.  Rivlin stood his ground.  Weiss declared: “Rivlin can sleep well at night.  He’s not important enough to be killed.”  Does this not remind us of the escalation leading up to the killing of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin in 1995?

Burned Arab home by Jewish extremists

Burned Arab home by Jewish extremists

God must have watched the events that unfolded at the Gay Pride Parade in Jerusalem two weeks ago.  A deranged orthodox Jewish man who’d just been released from a long prison sentence for violent crimes went on a killing spree during the Parade.  He stabbed people left and right.  One 16 year-old girl died at his hands.  For him and his supporters, gays are not God’s children.

Extremists do not follow one of God’s ten commandments: “Thou Shalt not take the name of the Lord thy God in Vain.”  Yet these men, Jewish, Muslim, Christian continue to misconstrue God’s will.  They interpret His word as their word.  They’re righteous, worthy of God’s blessing while others are ignorant infidels worthy of damnation and death.  For those of you who’re thinking why don’t I mention the atrocities committed by the Islamic State (ISIS), by Hamas, by Hezbollah, I say this: Jews are expected to behave and act on a higher moral ground.  As Jews we should not stoop to their level but bring theirs to ours.

After all, God is watching our Parade.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=maurice+labi&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Amaurice+labi

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

 

God is watching…PART 1

11 Jul

For the longest time, man has been meddling in the affairs of God, generally, for the benefit of man. Lately, in Israel, ultra-orthodox men appear to be running the show in what was originally God’s show.  They know better.  Left unchecked, God might strike us all with a thunderbolt and start creation all over, this time without man (and woman).  God's thunderboltWho needs the headache, He might be asking.  This is undoubtedly one of my weirdest opening for a blog post.  But bear with me.  People of all persuasions, particularly Jews in Israel, think they have God figured out.  They know what’s to come in the afterlife and who’s invited, who’s a kosher Jew and who’s suspect.  To the best of my knowledge, no one’s come back yet from the other side to tell us what’s in store.  I can think of three possible reasons: 1.  There’s nothing  2. There is something, but it’s so wicked and so horrible, that no one has been able to climb out of the fiery abyss and report back to us  3.  There’s something so good out there, so paradise-like, that whoever’s there, members sipping banana daiquiris and nibbling on Belgian chocolate, choose not to tell us nor include us in their “Club Med.”

Yet ultra-orthodox Jews in Israel, using their unlimited minutes calling plan, seem to have a direct line to God’s ear and God’s will.  General elections were held here 4 months ago.  The religious parties returned to power with Netanyahu as prime minister.  They’re holding him by the jewels. They insist on turning us more Jewish than we already are.

Hundreds of thousands of Israelis whose Jewish conversion is in the process for months, sometime years are told that they’re not “Kosher.”  These applicants — children of mixed marriages, those whose ancestral lineage was broken, non-Jews who’d married Jews and wish to establish a home in Israel are told an emphatic No!  They live in limbo.  Rabbis will not marry them.  Couples usually trek to Cyprus, the neighboring island-state, or to Greece, to tie the knot.  Their future children will be deemed not Jewish, undeserving and underprivileged.  Before the elections, the right-wing parties courted them, invited them into the fold, made promises, and now that they’re in power, they’re regarded as pariah.  That’s their lousy fate.  They can’t catch a break after death, either.  They are not allowed to be buried with Jews although their sons or daughters (non-Jews) serve in the military, although they know Jewish holidays, and they’re as patriotic as the next guy.  Where’s the love?  Is that what God really wants?

minstry of religious affairs

minstry of religious affairs

And doesn’t all this talk of righteousness and purity remind us of something?

Israel has only one form of Judaism: Orthodox.  But in America and in Europe, Reform and Conservative Judaism is also practiced.  This week, David Azoulai, Israel’s minister of religious affairs called the Reform Jews in the U.S. “a disaster to the Nation of Israel” and “sinners.”  That’s when the Mazto Balls hit the fan.  They’re mad as hell.  Reform Jews make up almost 40% of all American Jews.  They practice Judaism Light; they drive during Sabbath, men and women sit together in synagogues; they fudge a little on the prayer-book, and they eat Kosher-style.  However, they support Israel overwhelmingly, contribute money, lobby, send their kids to Jewish summer camps.  Somehow God told Azoulai that these Jews are not good enough, either.  Israel has few friends.  Attacking its own brothers smacks of stupidity of the highest order.

Take the world’s population, for instance.  I did the math.  1 out of 500 is Jewish.  Take a good-size theater.  Only 1 Jew is sitting, front row, of course.  Take a soccer stadium to capacity.  Only 60 Jews are at the concessions stand drinking lemonade and eating Hebrew Nationals.  The other 29,940 are drinking beer.  I’m not saying let’s “Mother Teresa” everyone in the world, but shouldn’t we keep the Jews we already have?

For God’s sake?

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=maurice+labi&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Amaurice+labi

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

Build and they shall not come

16 May

Israel has a relatively attractive figure: tall with narrow hips; the midsection widens then tapers off at the feet.  Galilee occupies the north, the Negev Desert stretches in the south, and at the center of things – Tel Aviv.

Distance of towns from Tel Aviv as a measure of success

Distance of towns from Tel Aviv as a measure of success

For the past several years, the government through its ministry of transportation is attempting to decentralize the country.  Around Galilee where I live there’s highway and bridge construction that would make proud a nation ten times Israel’s size.  Mountains are being shoved aside, cranes, bulldozers carry giant boulders like toy things.  Trucks haul dirt by the millions of cubic yards.  Driving to teach in Upper Galilee I eat red dust for breakfast, and on my return, brown dust for lunch.

As much as these 21st century modern highway arteries pump blood into Galilee and Negev Desert, they have really one purpose in mind – to connect them, you guessed it, to Tel Aviv.  Everyone in the media and in government talks about the need to develop the outer fringes of the country at the expense of the center.  It’s just talk.  These new roads and bridges don’t keep thousands of young men and women from swarming to Tel Aviv and its suburbs.  Tens of kilometers of railway tracks being laid down have one purpose – bring the masses to Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv

Israelis (and foreigners) moving to Tel Aviv are willing to put up with horrible traffic, congestion, apartments the size of shoe boxes, arrogant landlords who demand one year’s rent up front.  Why put up with such abuse?

Jobs.  Hipness.  Vibe.  Sea.  Opportunity.  These are some of the reasons.  Galilee is 60% Arab.  So I’m a minority of sorts in my own backyard.  The Negev, mostly desert, is vast and desolate.  The Israeli military will be moving many of its Tel Aviv installations to the Negev in the coming years.  While Tel Aviv gets more freed up land for sky scrapers, the Negev gets army barracks and training grounds.  Galilee gets domestic tourism and food-processing plants.

road construction in Galilee

road construction in Galilee

Tel Aviv gets it all, the rest of Israel gets scraps.  Jerusalem?  Yes, it’s the capital and the seat of government, and not much more unless you count 40% disgruntled Arabs in the East of the city, and pockets of ultra-orthodox Jews who still think they live in 19th century Europe.  What about the West Bank, aka Judea and Samaria?  The 400,000 Jewish settlers there don’t care much about Tel Aviv; they’re too busy surviving, praying, and fighting the Palestinian Arabs over land.  Why fight them there when you could come and fight good-old native Arabs in Galilee?

I step outside my Kfar Tavor home in Galilee and go for a walk in the beautiful trails and fields.  Almond, olive and grape vines surround me.  It’s pretty.  But ask anyone in Tel Aviv if they’d be willing to move here, and you’ll get a laugh.  Sure, it’s romantic, it’s reminiscent of the days the first Jewish immigrants returned to the Land of Israel, the air is cleaner (most days), and… that’s about it.  I keep walking down the trails.  In the very distance, I see the hillsides of Jordan.  If I were to get in the car, I’ll be in Lebanon in one hour.  Although Tel Aviv is less than 2 hours away (110 km), it’s a different country.

Bridge construction in Galilee

Bridge construction in Galilee

Tel Hai College is a cottage industry in Galilee, minutes from the Lebanese border.  Over 4000 students attend.  Most come from the center of the country, near Tel Aviv.  They want to get away from the big city, learn and enjoy country-style living.  Asked recently if they’d stay in Galilee after graduation and seek a job, make the place their home, only 10% said “yes.”

I get in the car and drive to Zefat in the north.  Hammers pound the roadside.  Concrete is being poured.  Men flatten black, steamy asphalt with rakes.  For whom, I wonder?  The radio’s on. Patriotic Israeli songs about the good old days (in Galilee) are heard.  I tap my fingertips on the steering wheel.  Dust hits the windshield.  Haze all around.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=maurice+labi&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Amaurice+labi

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

Ich bin ein Berliner – Maybe

18 Apr

Berlin is the second most-visited destination by Israelis.  So last week, my wife, twin daughters and I bolstered this statistic by spending almost a week in the German capital.  The decision to go wasn’t easy.  My father is a holocaust survivor.  Growing up, I heard his firsthand accounts of his captivity at Bergen-Belsen concentration camp.  Seventy years later, he has yet to set foot in Germany.  It’s a sore subject.  At 87, he’s done well for himself, married, raised a family, and has 7 grandchildren.

My daugthers inside the maze of the Holocaust Memorial - Berlin

My daugthers inside the maze of the Holocaust Memorial – Berlin

So what made me go against the grain and travel to Berlin, the underbelly of tyranny?  Could it be that time did its thing?  Could it be that Germany today is not the Germany of yesteryear?  I went to find out.

Cafe scene in Berlin

Cafe scene in Berlin

Berlin’s neither pretty nor romantic; it’s not Budapest; it’s not Paris.  There’s only a handful of neoclassical buildings.  Berlin “owes” its look of 1950s and 1960s square, unflattering residential blocks to the British and the Americans.  During WWII, the allies bombed and leveled 80% of the city.  So communist East Berlin and democratic West Berlin built itself out of the rubble and into present day.

We started out on a 3-hour walking tour of the city with an English guide who’s doing his PhD in German history.  The Berlin wall, the Holocaust Memorial, the Brandenburg Gate where Hitler delivered his speeches, are all mobbed by tourists.  Young students are everywhere. Cafes are full. Boutiques and storefronts are blocked by curious onlookers.  Double-decker sightseeing buses swallow and vomit tourists at regular intervals.  The city vibe is palpable.  People appear to be relaxed, smiles all around.  So I asked our guide to explain this unbound energy.  Not all is rosy, he explains.  Berlin is financially broke.  The German government pours billions to prop it up, to eventually make it worthy of the title “capital city.”  Berlin’s mayor was quoted as saying: “Berlin’s poor but sexy.”  The reunification of East and West Berlin was costly.  Many companies fled to Munich and Frankfurt.  Every year, there’s a negative migration of five to ten thousand.  But you wouldn’t know it by the revelers in the streets, in the malls, in the parks, on the bicycle paths.  “Poor” in German is relative.

Enjoying a spring day in Berlin

Enjoying a spring day in Berlin

The guide escorts our group to an open square.  It was the place of book-burning rallies before the War.  He then speaks of Germany’s economic miracle.  Germany’s the 4th largest economy in the world, and the strongest in Europe, the envy of all.  It reached this pinnacle because of one important reason ignored by the British, the French, the Hungarians, the Poles.  Germany is dealing with its past.  The Holocaust memorial is next door to the Bundestag, Germany’s parliament.  Hate-crimes are punished at the source.  Tolerance is key to any education program in school.  During last summer’s Soccer World Cup, the Germans won the title.  The were champions.  The national anthem was played in the streets, yet few knew the lyrics.  They’re uneasy with any sign of nationalism, content to raise a team flag or a jug of beer, instead.

I don’t buy this remarkable transformation, not all of it.  After the War, the German courts handed light sentences to Nazis.  In East Berlin it was different.  The communists rounded them up and sent them to gulags.  But still, I couldn’t help but notice that Israelis flock to Berlin by the thousands, to live, to study, to invest – and they are welcomed.

Berlin Street Art

Berlin Street Art

What a difference seventy years make.  I can’t adopt President Kennedy’s words of 1963 just yet. This week was Israel’s Holocaust Remembrance Day.  Dark memories still haunt us.  Man is capable of unspeakable atrocities.  One man, Willy Brandt, West Germany’s former chancellor, Berlin’s mayor, and Noble Peace Prize winner made a difference.  He fought tirelessly to bring Germany back into the family of nations, fought communism and brutality everywhere.  In 1988 he said: “My real success was having contributed to the fact that in the world in which we live, the name of our country [Germany] and the concept of peace can be mentioned in the same breath.”

It’s a good start.

Dad, I went to Berlin to see, to learn.  I wish you well.

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Maurice Labi is an Israeli-American who lived in Los Angeles for many years. In 2011 He returned to Northern Israel (Galilee) with his wife and twin teenage daughters. He is of two lands, of two cultures and he blogs about his experiences in Israel, particularly from Galilee where Jews and Arabs dwelled for centuries.

He has also written three novels: “Jupiter’s Stone,” “Into the Night,” and “American Moth” — available at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=maurice+labi&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Amaurice+labi

or at BN.com

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/s/maurice-labi?store=allproducts&keyword=maurice+labi

 

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